Baragoi, a small outpost stuck out on the El Barta plain midway between the formidable escarpment of the Lopet Plateau to the south and the Mount Nyiru range to the north, has the feeling of a true frontier town. With a mixed Turkana and Samburu population reflecting its geographic position, it sits uneasily on the borderlands of these two tribes.

Setting out from this town you head in a north, northwest direction, gaining slightly in elevation until reaching the Akrim Plateau. Traversing familiar scrubland and intermittently following dried river courses you pass small groups of zebra and gazelle along the way. Eventually the landscape becomes increasingly desiccated with rock outcrops, the result of ancient lava flows, becoming a familiar feature. These lava beds gradually descend into the Sugutta Valley. By following a deep cut canyon, you also descend until finally reaching the valley floor. Here you are confronted by an almost Dali-esque landscape of scattered dome palms, beyond which stretching for miles, a vast expanse of sand, lava dust and salt crust etching their patterns on a flat plain. This scene is broken only by the remains of old volcanic cones, some with the perfect shape of ancient pyramids, others worn by the incessant winds to give the effect of upturned ships in a sea of sand.

The 'Cauldron' as the Sugutta is known (also to others the 'Elephant's Stomach') is enclosed on the west side by the Loriu plateau, and to the north by the Kangolenyang mountains which form a barrier sepearating the vast Lake Turnkana from our inhospitable valley. Sitting close to these mountains lies the comparatively small soda lake of Logipi, the remnants of what used to be a much larger lake until it was sucked dry, presumably by the 'Elephant's Stomach'. From the point of reaching the valley floor a 4 hour walk along the eastern flank of the valley leads you there (followed by another 4 hour return trip). On your outward trek from well over 2km away you become conscious of at first a distant hum, further on its ever increasing volume betraying the proximity of the lake, until as though through a mirage it appears, its shore line decked out in a seemingly incandescent pink. It is here you discover the source of the now intense humming; flamingos, hundreds of thousands of them, apparently chatting to one another as they feed along the lake's edge.

The next leg of the journey after leaving the shade provided by the dome palms, leads due west. Initially, depending on the time of year, you will encounter a large body of slow moving ankle deep water, sometimes over 2 km from bank to bank, sometimes just a mere trickle. This state is dictated by the caprices of periodic rainfall in the far flung Cherengani hills some 200 km to the south. You have stumbled across the Suguta river in its last throws before slowly evaporating in the intense heat. The only other living creatures to share this spectacle will be the now familiar flamingos as they congregate in their thousands to feed off the algae rich soda water. Fording the river disturbs them, sending up vast plumes of pink into the sky as they circle above, eventually settling down again to carry on with their feeding with you now at a safe distance. A memorable sight in the early evening sun, with the Nyiru range and the Akrim Plateau from where you have descended as backcloth.

Continuing now from the far side is the most arduous section of the trek, a 20 km march across open desert, fully exposed to the relentless life sapping equatorial sun (temperatures regularly reach over 140 deg F). One must set out before first light to achieve this, reaching the distant foot hills of the Loriu Plateau before the full potential of the midday sun has greatest impact. Here at last, protection can be sought beneath a few clusters of stunted dome palms that exist amongst the scattering of thorn scrub. This marks the boundary of the desert, a long deserved resting place affording some small browse for the now exhausted donkeys. A few kilometres further into the foot hills an ancient well can be found providing luxurious fresh cool water. This presents an idyllic setting to pitch camp, then scrub yourself clean and replenish depleted water supplies, the Sugutta now behind you.

The next morning, the volcanic escarpment of the 3500 ft Loriu Plateau must be surmounted. A steep ascent over desiccated rock, ravines and precipices is hard work, but becomes rewarding as the sapping heat slowly ebbs away with gain in altitude. On reaching the plateau summit, the remainder of the journey is a pleasure, passing over flat polished rock, then a gradual descent into scrubland, following dried river courses until finally the first signs of civilisation become apparent; a small flock of goats, then some camels browsing amongst the thorn scrub with wooden bells tied around their necks, giving intermittent boings (alerting the herd boy as to their whereabouts). After some time, tracks emerge of which you follow the most beaten. This leads a winding course for a further day or so past a few clusters of huts (some abandoned, some whose inhabitants not used to the site of strangers keep out of sight) until eventually you arrive at the small tribal settlement of Lokori, the journey's end.