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When planning
a trek the following considerations should be taken into account:
Weather
In
northern Kenya weather follows the essentially equatorial pattern consisting
of two rainy seasons (March to May and October to November) and two dry
seasons (June to September and December to February). Though rainfall
can be infrequent and sometimes non existent during the 'rainy seasons',
when it does arrive, it can come with such destructive force to wash away
the few roads and tracks that exist. These roads and tracks ultimately
facilitate your arrival to, and collection from, the start and finishing
stages of your trek, thus the preferred time to travel is during dry seasons
when the potential of being marooned is significantly reduced. In addition
to this, planning a walk during the dry season eliminates the need to
bring along a tent. Sleeping under the stars is highly recommended especially
in the many arid areas where mosquitoes don't exist.
Water
Turkana/Samburu
district is distinguished by its extreme aridity. Vast swathes of land
dominating the region can best be described as either scrub, semi-desert
or pure desert with only the upper reaches of the volcanic mountains providing
release. As a consequence, knowing where your next source of water lies
is of immense importance. The course followed by most of the routes detailed
are dictated by their proximity to sources of water along the way, whether
they be ancient wells, oasis, mountain springs, or merely deep holes sunk
in dried river courses. These are essential, because although a camel
or donkey can carry say, 60 litres of water, one must remember that they
too need their own supply of water (donkeys more so than camels) to sustain
themselves in the extreme heat. The law of diminishing returns then becomes
relevant when deciding how many pack animals to employ on a trek.
Tribal Boundaries
Cattle
rustling between tribes in the Turkana/Samburu district is endemic and
is exacerbated during times of drought which are frequent. As a consequence
of this, during the longer treks, when passing from one territory into
another, it is sometimes necessary to change your retinue of travelling
companions if they belong to the opposing tribe, to reflect the territory
you are now moving in. Either that, or plan your trek so that it stays
within the confines of one particular territory. In particularly sensitive
areas the authorities stipulate the requirement to travel with an armed
home guard as a precaution. That said, it is very rare that westerners
are at risk because essentially they pose no threat to the local nomads
with regards to the acquisition of their cattle. Westerners in general
are regarded with hospitable curiosity.
Setting off Points
Trekking per se is
an alien concept to most of the local inhabitants in Turkana/Samburu district.
In this respect you can consider yourself somewhat as a pioneer. However,
because no established trekking infrastructure exists, the setting off
points are limited to the communities where reliable contacts have been
established.
Local Contacts
The
good will of the local elders is of paramount importance in conducting
a successful trek. Without their blessing difficulties can occur when
trying to recruit your travelling companions. These travelling companions
should essentially consist of: an experienced guide with full knowledge
of the outlying area which you are to traverse, an accomplished headman
(camel or donkey handler) and, of course, the animals themselves, donkeys
or camels, the choosing of which will depend entirely on the terrain you
are to cover.
During a period
of over 10 years trekking experience in the district, the author, with
initial assistance from the renowned explorer Wilfred Thesiger (who lived
for 30 years in Maralal and conducted frequent expeditions in the area)
has established and fostered a trust with the many nomadic people who
have accompanied him on his walks. This trust is an essential element
to make real the concept of 'Wandering Nomads', for it is these people
based in Loyangalani, South Horr, Baragoi and Wamba who will be called
upon to assist yourselves.
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